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Categorized | Food

Tastings at a Korean Winery

alice

alice / blog / twitter

Good homey food gave Alice a lot of nurturing while growing up, but she also had her share of dormy cafeteria food as a boarding student in high school. Hopping from one job to another that had little in common, Alice found one thing that stayed constant: her passion for food, be it eating, cooking, reading about it - but her biggest favorite is feeding other people and sharing the table with loved ones. She believes food will help her understand the world better.

Likewind is a popular Korean travel blogger.  He recently took a visit to a Korean winery and you can read his original post in Korea here.
This is a slightly abridged translation.
The last stop during my Daeboo-do trip was a winery called Green Young Nong Association. The gloomy rainy weather had all but destroyed my enthusiasm during the trip but visiting a winery was still intringuing. Maybe that was because there was a chance for some wine tasting.
Grapes always remind me of the grape-picking experience I had in Australia. I spent long hours picking grapes under the blazing sun. I really can’t stand grapes.
I had no idea that wine was produced in Korea, nor that there was a winery that I could visit and taste wine. I guess this winery is a new favorite destination in Daeboo-do.  I also learned that Green Young Nong Association’s wine brand “Grand Coteau” was fairly well-known. I really know little about wine. I’ve tasted some wine before, mostly the kind they serve on planes. Although I drank wine a few times in Korea, it still isn’t all that familiar to me as far as liquor goes. Drinking wine a few times sure wouldn’t make me any kind of expert, just a layperson to the world of wine.
The owner of the winery gave us a tour of the facilities himself. He seemed to be quite proud of the place, given that he’s put so much hard work into it.  It was obvious that he was a big wine enthusiast.
Upon entering the aging room, we found wine bottles placed in boxes. There we listened to the winery staff give a simple explanation about the winemaking process, and we moved on to the storage room next door.
We tasted some wine in this room. It was pretty good. I don’t remember the exact name, but I think it was a rose. Some people believe that wines made of Campbell grapes aren’t great, but this wine proved otherwise. After finishing a glass each, we went onto upstairs in the main building.
A delicious lunch table greeted us upstairs: nakjibokkeum. The kalguksu I had for lunch wasn’t very filling so the nakji looked especially delicious. I salivated in anticipation. The restaurant was not actually owned by Green Young Nong Association. They actually hired a catering service from a restaurant to pair the meal with the wine.
Before even the dish was all cooked, it just looked so delicious.  I started devouring the nakji along with the different kinds of wine that they handed me – whites, reds and even ice wines. I thought white wines were clear but the one I tasted had a reddish hue.
As we worked our way through the nakji lunch, the owner of the winery continued his talk on Korean wine. He’s been working really hard to make the Korean winemaking industry grow — not just his own business but other players in the market as well. He further emphasized that you don’t need to pay too much attention to all the formalities in drinking wine, and it would be a great idea to create a wine culture adapted to Korean cuisine and drinking culture. I could tell that he not only had great affection for wine but was really working hard to create a good environment for enjoying wine.
I don’t even know how much I drank at the winery. I just drank all the wine that was given out. At last, we even tasted ice wine, which costs more than other regular wines.

Although I was quite full, I couldn’t skip the nakji fried rice to finish off the great meal.

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  • Lunlaa Planet Company is a Social Media Company which has launched Lunlaa.com- an easy restaurant guide & locator  for people of Thailand.
  • Doosan, which is a large chaebol in Korea, has a large wine import contract with Ironstone Vineyards. The winery is located in Calaveras County, in the Sierra Nevada Foothills of Northern California. Doosan takes the Ironstone wine and blends it with Korean varietals and sells it as Majuang wine.
    Maybe Doosan has some competition now.
  • I have yet to taste a domestic Korean wine that didn't have strong overtones (and that is being polite) of Cool-aid...

    I'd be interested to have a expat food-blogger take a shot at this..
  • I've had extremely unpleasant experiences with Korean 'wines'. Had to cleanse my mouth afterward. The Korean grape varities are no suited to making wine and the knowledge of terroir isn't there. Ice wine would be a safer bet. I was meaning to research K wines more this summer but keep getting sidetracked by more important things.
  • Charles
    Joshua.... even if the knowledge of terroir were there I don't think that there could be very many good wines made here. There is a certain kind of climate that wine requires and Korea (4 distinct seasons, anyone?) just doesn't have that. I'm trying to think of a wine-making country with a climate *anything* like Korea's?

    I'm blank.

  • As you say, Korean weather is a factor. The humid and wet summer doesn't allow the grape to mature and ripen through the growing season. Too much rain dilutes the flavor of the wine and you end up with a wine with not enough ripe fruit and low acidity. Grapes don't like humidity and moisture leads to fungal growth which can cause rot. (Some rot is good like Botrytis) Korean grape varietals are sweet to start with and have large berries with flavors that are not concentrated. You could say these are western cultural impositions and that Korean wine or Chinese wine is a different cultural product but I know what I prefer to drink and so do Korean and Chinese consumers.

    Korean farming culture is based on using flat land to grow crops. In the north, flat land is often a river basin and very silty or sandy soil. In the south of Korea it's mudflats, or rice paddies. Not suitable for grape growing.

    Korean winters are extreme. We are 42 degrees north so there winters are cold. In New Zealand, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are grown at 47 degrees south in Otago, the most southern wine growing region in the world. These varietals like cold winters. Pinot Noir is particulary sensitive, hard to grow, and needs to be hand picked (hence the high price). It's thin skinned and can't handle humidity. It simply dies.

    Speaking of humidity, Bali even makes wine now. They harvest every 4 months and use wines mostly from the Muscat family. Korea could have something simliar in 10 years if there's demand from Ajumas. In Bali is a tourist gimick and all about fun. My Dad has been there and said, they were fruity and fun. These are not varietals anyone takes seriously since Roman times. See: http://www.hattenwines.com

    Korean fall and spring are closer to a good temperature to grow grapes. There's a long period of sunlight without rain and low humidity. However, every varietal has it's own preferences of climate, sunlight, terrior, of course.

    What some K companies are working on now is ice wine. This makes sense business wise. Can be made with average grapes from anywhere, manufactured in a shed, then sold at 55,000 won for a half bottle to school girls.
  • Charles
    Joshua - as to pulling the cultural card? You absolutely can IF you accept that you are not competing against the "international" (Damn you French hegemony!) wines. But wine, in general, is now across-cultural. To me it comes down to fighting the fights you can win, and wine is probably not one of them.

    Also, from my perspective the "cultural difference" would be seen internationally as an argument against the sophistication of the Korean palate. Since I already know plenty of Koreans with far better palates than I, I think that ship has also sailed (as you also note).

    Now, get some good beers going on around here and we can talk! (and my guess is that is not so very far away).
  • Sadly beer tax is 125% so imported beers stand little chance unless backed by some serious market investment such as Hoegarden or KGB. (NZ's RTD which is often mistakenly put on menu as NZ beer.)

    However over the five years I've been here there have been more german beers appearing on the market. Let's hope the German's get the marketing right.
  • Hey ^^ that would an amazing article!!! pls do!!!
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