nanoomi

Gwangjang Market (시장 – shi jang) opened in 1905 and became the first permanent market (as supposed to markets that were set up every few days) in the country.  It thrived as one of the three major markets in Seoul in the late Joseon Dynasty.  Although the market was originally planned to be set up between Gwang-gyo (광교 – wide bridge) and Jang-gyo (장교 – long bridge) nearby Cheonggye-cheon (청계천 – Cheonggye Stream), the plan was canceled after a flood in 1904.  Today, the market is still using the name of Gwangjang, wide and long, which you’ll understand when you go there.  Although it is famous for textiles and traditional Korean costumes, we, the hungry foodies, know it as a food destination where you can see the real livelihood of common Korea.

The food section is only a part of Gwangjang Shijang, yet it is a street-food central with a better representation of the food that goes well with alcoholic beverages, by which I mean, soju.  It is most famous for bindaetteok/bindaeddeok (빈대떡 – mung bean pancake, often mixed with pork), but Korean-style beef carpaccio (육회 – yuk hoe), bibimbap, fish stews, mayak (마약 – drug) gimbap and giant blood sausages (순대 – sun dae) are also popular items here.

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Fall is awesome for hiking. And given Seoul’s topography, there’s never any shortage of options. Gwanaksan is one mountain I’ve been meaning to hike for some time.

Despite being referred to as a “small” mountain, the 4.1km hike from the subway station to the 631m summit (Yeonjudae) is not exactly what I’d call an easy climb. Much of the trail is rocky without any real discernible path. There are wooden steps in a few parts, but overall it’s a pretty steep and demanding.

Regardless, if you’re up for a little exercise, the views from the summit are fantastic. It took me just over an hour (around 70mins) to make it to the very top.

Literally meaning “hat-shaped peak” (the Chinese character “Gwan” means “hat”), Gwanaksan is one of the five representative peaks of Gyeonggi-do. There are numerous paths leading up the mountain but the most popular starting point is from Gwancheon Park, just in behind Gwacheon Government Complex.

At the foot of Gwanaksan, just beyond the Gwancheon Park entrance is Gwacheon Hyanggyo, a Confucian temple. This educational institution was established by the government during the Joseon Dynasty.

The distance from Gwacheon Hyanggyo to Yeonjudae is 3.2km.

Just beyond that are several makgeolli and bindaetteok vendors, the quintessential to wolf down after your climb.

From there the path starts and stretches all the way up along the stream, past numerous resting stations, small stacks of wishing stones beside rushing brooks, and Jangseung, traditional Korean totem poles. Some larger stones here and there are marked with Buddhist scriptures.

Founded in 677, Gwanaksan’s largest temple, Yeonjuam is located at the summit, a rather unusual location. 400m from there is Yeonjudae. Arguably the most incredible attraction on Gwanaksan is the beautiful little Buddhist shrine that clings dangerously to the cliff.

Getting there: Gwanaksan is very easy to get to. Take subway Line 4 to Gwancheon Station and get out Exit 7. Walk straight for 550m and turn left. The park entrance will be just up on your right. There’s a convenience just before the entrance if you need to stock up on supplies.

To view the rest of Gregory’s photos, check out the original post here.

While most people are out partying it up every 12/31, I usually spend the night at my grandma’s.  This because my family practices the custom of charye (차례).  It’s a basically a memorial service for ancestors, but to me, it means delicious home-cooked Korean food and plenty of leftovers to take home.

Galbi, bindaeddeok, fish jeon, zucchini jeon, donggeurang ddaeng, japchae, namul, etc.... All my faves.

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By Kathy Fidler

Juinun Beantown, Goyang

On the northwestern edge of the city, about halfway to Ilsan on subway line three, there is a suburb called Goyang that is home to a wonderful little cluster of farms and specialty restaurants. There’s an herb farm, a mushroom farm, the tipsily entertaining Baedari Tradtional Wine Museum and makgeolli brewery, and outdoor grill restaurants specializing in just about any kind of meat you can imagine.

Up the road from all of these locations is a complex with the English name Beantown, housing a bean farm, a coffee house, a shop selling an impressive variety of homemade soybean pastes (doenjang) and chili paste (gochujang), as well as the only live turkey I’ve ever seen in the Seoul metropolitan area. Front and center in this delightful complex is a restaurant serving foods produced on the farm.

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